Last year, I wrote an article on the ‘summer of discontent’ on Scotland’s ‘North Coast 500’ road trip. As a resident on the route here in Caithness, I spent a lot of time writing about responsible travel and repeating the phrase ‘let’s hope things improve.’ A summer of littering, outdoor toileting and inconsiderate ‘wild camping’ couldn’t possibly be allowed to continue. Summer 2020 was an anomaly, a lockdown-induced madness, a result of lack of education and awareness. I had faith that things would settle down, they had to.
Which seemed like a good plan until summer 2021 arrived.
When travel restrictions eased at the end of April, many people in the North Highlands were wary. Communities felt guarded, still reeling from the events of the previous year. There appeared to be room for optimism, though, with Highland Council announcing a £1.5 million visitor management investment strategy and plans to invest in roads, enhanced litter collection and the creation of seasonal access ranger posts. I tried to feel positive, grounding myself in the hope that the summer could be enjoyed by visitors and local folk alike.
In June, I visited my favourite local beach at Dunnet to do a beach clean. I had been there a week earlier, being filmed reading a poem (this one) about my connection to the long expanse of sand. By now, I was aware of the growing popularity of informal camping along the sands, in the dune areas and indeed all around beauty spots in Caithness. What I wasn’t prepared for were the amount of campfire remains, disposable grills and scorch marks I would encounter on my walk. Next to the village I grew up in, a campfire stuffed with toilet roll and litter sat abandoned after a ‘wild camping’ adventure by the harbour. Around the twisting roadside, more evidence of campfires and cut branches blighted the pretty shore. On later beach clean visits, I would find wipes and toilet mess at the entrance to the beach being used for overnighting, more campfires stuffed with rubbish. I would clear up the remains of someone’s park-up, their toothbrush. At the other end of the beach, residents were clearing informal campsites, disposable barbeques, sanitary protection, poo.
By the following month, our dog had rolled in human waste while out walking in the local countryside. We would find soiled wipes at the roadside, our shock diminished by the regularity with which these things occurred. In local beach clean and litter picking groups, reports of human waste and camping litter became more common. On North Coast 500 Facebook groups, posters would ‘set the record straight’ about the lack of problems encountered on their 4-day/week-long/fortnight’s visit, distant voices invalidating the experiences of those who live here all year round.
Any Highland resident expressing concerns about unsustainable tourism or ‘wild camping’ could now, it seemed, be branded ‘anti-tourist.’ Highlanders have been reduced to caricature, the imagined cliché of a pitchfork-wielding mob. In reality, most Highland residents are possessing of a politeness born of living in small places. Never knowing when you might bump into your auntie/boss/teacher (in the main, at least) tends to encourage good manners. Most local residents will say hello in passing, even if they don’t agree with you staying in that lay-by overnight.
And that anti-tourist rhetoric, too, tends to miss out on a lot of context. Attitudes towards tourism intersect with other issues affecting rural areas – underinvestment in roads, loss of services, lack of affordable housing, the need for better connectivity, sustainable jobs. For many local residents, the £22 million boost from the NC500 to the North Highland economy reported in 2018 feels intangible. It can be jarring to see huge motorhomes pulling into the supermarket car park while local roads are crumbling. It can be painful to see house prices inflating, making it impossible for young people to stay in the places where they were born.
There is also a sense of unease about our promoters and their regard for local communities (even if the ‘NC500’ was born of good intentions as the brainchild of North Highland Initiative – a non-profit organisation set up by HRH Prince Charles to promote economic growth in the North Highlands). The brand is now managed by a private company, North Coast 500 Ltd., and although NHI note on their website that they remain a ‘significant investor,’ the majority shareholder is listed as Danish billionaire Anders Povlsen’s Wildland Ventures, who according to the Wildland website, ‘invest in businesses like the NC500 that directly contribute to local communities,’ in line with Wildland’s wider commitment to nurture ‘a landscape where wildlife can thrive and nature can heal.’ The NC500 has long been the subject of concerns related to over-promotion and under-infrastructure. In March, a NC500 spokesperson was quoted in the local press stating that ‘infrastructure investment is the responsibility of the Scottish Government and Highland Council.’ Recently, there have been renewed calls for NC 500 Ltd. to contribute to infrastructure in the places they promote.
Rural areas of the Highlands do of course need visitors, and most Highland residents recognise the wider benefits of sustainable tourism. Visit Scotland statistics published in 2018 indicated that tourism employment in 2017 accounted for 13% of total employment in Highland, while HIE state on their website that tourism-related employment represents up to 43% of the workforce in some areas of the Highlands and Islands as a whole. In the town where I live, that figure is likely to be much lower due to the presence of other large employers in the area. The idea that the whole of the Highlands are being ‘kept afloat’ by tourism has a condescending air, which at times has been used to justify putting up with behaviour that is unacceptable. None of this means local people aren’t supportive of tourism-related business in the region. Neither does it mean residents aren’t welcoming of tourism which is respectful to the communities in which they live.
The long-term sustainability of the NC500 and its impact on the quality of life of local people has been the subject of some scrutiny. Earlier in the summer, it was widely reported that residents in Applecross were to be consulted on withdrawing from the route. In places like Durness (and on nearby Ceannabeinne Beach) images shared on social media show scenes that look less like visitors enjoying their holidays than invaders laying siege to places. Would-be travellers discuss plans to ‘wild camp in Durness,’ apparently unaware that affixing ‘wild camping’ to the name of a village is a contradiction which conveys a lack of regard for the folk who call such places home.
Of course, many of these issues are not confined to the North Coast 500, and in the background is a Covid/Brexit/restrictions maelstrom which has forced additional pressures in many areas. Over the last two summers, antisocial behaviour has been reported at beauty spots all over the UK. Irresponsible behaviour exists in every sector of humanity (including local) and is not confined to the portion of visitors behaving badly on the North Coast 500. Yet with increasing numbers comes an increase in the irresponsible minority. When we are asking visitors to ‘bag and bin’ their poo because there are now too many poos for holes to be dug, we are not in a sustainable position. And very little of this feels commensurate with a route being touted as ‘the best road trip in the world.’
And therein lies another problem – the marketing of the North Highlands as a driving route, a destination ‘tick-list.’ As a friend recently commented on social media – the North Coast 500 is now a thing to ‘do’ and not a place to be. The cultural identities that make areas unique are being eroded along the sweep of 516 miles, the ‘north coast’ title infiltrating businesses, signs, places. Years ago, I contributed to this myself, writing (unpaid) articles for the North Coast 500 and other tourist organisations. Now, reading them makes me feel sad, like something to atone for. A sense of place has become disposable, and the shift feels irreversible, out of reach.
Little of this is helped by the packaging of the North Highlands as a remote landscape and a place devoid of people. If the influx of visitors over the past two summers has shown us anything, it’s how un-remote and accessible the Highlands really are. Telling the world about a pre-existing road network that ‘appeared as if by magic’ (NC500 ‘about’ page) paints a picture of the Highlands as a landscape without the lived experience of people. This in turn renders local residents invisible, leaving pleas to ‘respect local’ feeling hollow, falling flat.
Infrastructure remains a hotly debated topic. There’s not enough of it, and local people need public toilets too. There’s also a balance between infrastructure and the urbanisation of rural places. One of the things that makes our landscape special is its sense of being ‘wild.’ Plans to provide low-cost facilities for motorhomes might be more welcome if they included parallel measures to exclude informal park-ups around villages, settlements, and around sites of cultural and historic significance. Beaches, too, have rarely been enhanced by the addition of 27 tents, human waste and fires (see Ceannabeinne, and in another area of the Highlands, the Morar Silver Sands). Infrastructure is needed, so too is consideration of a type of tourism that infringes on local residents’ access to amenities, quality of life and mental wellbeing. I don’t have the answers on this – it’s complicated. What I do know is that the people most impacted by the effects of tourism in the Highlands should be listened to and heard.
I recently read a piece of tourism-based research that concluded ‘local stories were best told by local people.’ In regards to the North Coast 500, it’s now rare to see non-business related local voices represented in the posts they share. The North Coast 500 feels like something apart from us, something being ‘done’ by others, something that has little connection to our way of life here in the Highlands. In a sense, it has left local people – the diverse, vibrant communities who live here – feeling storyless. Nowadays I find myself hesitant to tell my stories, concerned that they might end up on a ‘wild camping’ site or somehow or other causing damage to the home I love.
A few days ago, I went back to Dunnet Beach to do another beach clean. Along the undulating dunes, a large area of the grasses had been burnt. I had no way of knowing who had done this or how it had happened, but nonetheless it hurt me. I climbed another peak, looking over at the farm where my grandfather had been the ‘cattle man’ for fifty years. I wondered about the future of this place, what it would come to. I wondered what we’d think when we remembered these summers of fire and disrespect. I thought about broken windows, the idea that a house left with one broken window would soon have all the others smashed, the sign of a place uncared for, abandoned. It felt like everywhere I looked, the windows were getting broken.
It felt like the walls of my house were falling down.
I stepped onto the beach and found another fire pit stuffed with pieces of someone’s litter. Further along, ‘NC500’ had been written in large letters in the sand. It felt like a burn, a brand, a means of taking something away – although I’m sure that wasn’t the intention. I looked at it for a moment and passed by, deciding to leave it to the rhythms of the tide.
I once read a book about wolves, and how in order to want to protect them, people first needed to love them. Getting people to love destinations can come from stories, stories of place and the people who make them what they are. At a time when Highlanders feel pushed out of the narratives of where they live it’s ironic that 2022 will be Scotland’s Year of Stories. Here in Caithness, I see buds of those stories returning, in poet George Gunn’s ‘Words on the Wind’ project with Lyth Arts Centre, in work being done by charities like Caithness Broch Project, and in ‘Living Landscapes‘, a research project by UHI PHD student Julian Grant.
Perhaps it’s time for more coming-together of voices, a binding of the fabric of the North Highlands.
Perhaps it’s time for communities to join together, to speak out, to be listened to and heard.
To find an approach to tourism that encourages visitors to love our places and our stories as we do, and to truly ‘respect local.’
The people of the Highlands need change, and a way to reclaim the stories that are ours.
Gail Anthea Brown, 2021.
I can relate strongly to this. Living on the Isle of Skye, another tourist destination, we would be knee-deep in used toilet roll, food wrappers, disposable bbqs and other rubbish if it weren’t for the Hurculean efforts of locals who have formed litter patrols and who pick up what tourists leave behind. I too don’t have an answer, except perhaps to educate and in some cases shame those that do this. It’s so sad to see. Many on the island rely on tourism, but it needs to be sensitive and sustainable, and I don’t know how we make that happen. 🤔
It’s a really complex and sensitive issue. Here in Caithness, we also have voluntary groups like Caithness Beach Cleans who work hard to keep local beaches pristine. Unfortunately much of the fall out of the irresponsible behaviour settles on local residents, volunteers, other responsible visitors and council workers who are not on big wages. The last couple of years have been heartbreaking – sending solidarity and best wishes to you folks in Skye.
And to you too in Caithness. Long may the good and thoughtful people outweigh the handful of others
Since 1968, at the tender age of 16, I’ve made the pilgrimage to Scourie, Furness, Cape Wrath, and Eribol. Over the past decade and a half, along with my partner, I’ve spend many weeks of the year in a rented caravan or cottage in the area: We loved the tranquility, and the beauty of hills and beaches. I’ve wild-camped at times, believing in the “leave nothing but footprints …” dictum.
Since the NC500 we’ve noted the increase in traffic as you say, with people ‘ticking off” this circuit of the north as a bucket list item (have seen the same in Nepal too). We’ve talked to people we know in the area, and sympathise because of the unnecessary mess and rubbish left, the increased journey times, and the general intrusion into your lives.
This year will be the first in over 50 years that I will not be travelling; this is due to the uncertainty of Covid, but also due to a knee replacement operation. I will miss the beauty of Balnakeil beach, and the walk to Keodale; the run to Tongue, and to Ben Hope. Hopefully more folk will disappear abroad next year and things will calm down.
Thank you, and all colleagues for your sterling efforts for cleaning up the rubbish left by such inconsiderate travellers. Not all of us are like that.
Thank you for letting me keep in touch with your lovely area by your writing.
Did the Nc500 in July with my son, we cycled it in 5 glorious days. We stayed in Hostels and small B&Bs, ate in the cafes on route and bought snacks and refreshments from local stores. We never left a trace, not even a gel wrapper (they always go back in my pocket). This to me is what the Nc500 was made for we loved and was pretty much in awe of every mile, even coming across the obligatory stag at the side of the road near the stunning Kylesku bridge. Ban the van, buy a bike.
You know its not anyones fault there are not enough information about where toilets are also very little sings for people the roads with pothole should be fixed as with the rest of them all over the uk. The main problem is tge stuck up people’s how dont want anyome else to enjoy the land cause tgey are selfish
I would suggest that it is not about “stuck up people” at all. Is it stuck up or selfish to want to go for a walk without stepping in excrement? How would you feel if your favourite walk was overflowing with litter, including toilet paper and pieces of bbq waste?
I live in the Highlands and also own a small van used for trips and can assure you that when I leave a spot, you would not know anyone had been there. Is it selfish to expect others to do the same?
Show some respect to the areas you want to visit and the people you see there should be basic common sense. Why is that so difficult for some people to follow?
If all this means “stuck-up” then that’s a label I’m happy to have.
Shocking comment! There is absolutely NO excuse for leaving anything behind – after all, it was taken there so take it away!!
My husband’s croft is on A9 you pass through 1 village full of shops then 7 miles our private land (at time new born lambs and their mums in field along with a few calves and their mums big cows) noticed car parked up and every one out of car for toilet stop in that field they were told to take their toilet waste out of the field and the next village not even 1 mile you can’t not see it from anywhere around mine is also like the one they just passed through with plenty signs full shops and FREE public toilet IT WAS LUNCH TIME THROUGH THE WEEK SO NO EXCUSE and we meant to be ok with this happening and that’s just 1 thing someone tried to catch a lamb that got out of the field (normally they just make their own way back to their mum) but this 1 got chased onto A9 because woman was going to catch it pick it up and decide what field she was going to put it back into. Do you know how heavy lambs get? People go for a walk through the fields with cows and calves I won’t even get between a cow and her baby but people don’t think oh that huge animal can kill me because I’m in her territory. The problem is because of them that do all this we can’t sit back and think everything ok we have to be constantly checking now because people come up here and don’t think to read up look into the area it’s through stupidity but we have to be constantly on look out for people being stupid and making mess destroying the Highlands makes us wonder why are they coming they say it’s so beautiful here but they are not thinking what they leave behind who is going to clean that up, it’s our HOME our kids can’t go out and play like they used to with broken glass, empty tins, fires, human poo. But it’s only a few so it’s ok !!!!
We came to Skye by the dreaded Motorhome, and felt awful the whole time, there should be a if you haven’t booked, you can’t cross the bridge. Would love to come back out of school holidays in a small car, abd book in at B&B’s etc.
I’m sorry that you felt bad. The island is a friendly place and holidays are a time to relax and enjoy yourselves. I hope that it wasn’t ruined for you.
We visited Skye in our motorhome in May this year and had a fantastic time. We pre-booked our sites (we don’t do ‘wild camping’). It was relatively quiet and we made use of the limited daytime parking for motorhomes when we were off site. We walked from our sites too.
As with many of these problems, they arise because of the numbers. When there are a handful of motorhomes and campervans ‘wild camping’ discretely, singly and thoughtfully doesn’t cause a problem. But with phone Apps listing ‘wild camping’ spots, and locations being used by half a dozen or more vans every night, the impact on the location and the local residents is inevitable.
The problems described are UK wide though. On Morecambe Bay we have places nearby that are listed as wild camping spots on some of those Apps. Here was a comment next to one of them “Great place next to the main road with wonderful views over the bay. Up to 10 vans so can be nice and cosy if a bit noisy. Great if your toilet facilities are limited as you can use the banking opposite, just be careful where you tread. We did get shouted at by a local old bat but gave her the vs and she disappeared.” The council have, not surprisingly, now placed large boulders in the way to prevent any further ‘wild camping’, and of course, any parking at all.
We’ll see more of this as the minority of irresponsible users, plus the sheer numbers, leads to locals demanding action. Physical barriers will become more prevalent but in the end I think that the only answer will be legislation that places restrictions on ‘wild camping’ and sleeping in vehicles overnight except in designated locations. It has gone too far to be reigned in by voluntary action, and I think that those who think that it will go away when travel to Europe opens up again will be disappointed.
Well said as always bringing the issue forward. I think of rogues elephants trashing carefully tended gardens…..leaving disaster in their wake….and a desolate feeling of helplessness…how do you turn a rogue human ….?
Oh Meg, I wish I knew! x
Caithness holds a special place in my heart. I only had the privilege of living there as an expat for 2 years and seeing what people are doing to such a spectacular place is sad. I am so sorry.
Thankyou for your comment Lynitia. The last couple of summers have been quite a shock.
This breaks my heart. As a Caithness Lassie, who left years ago but returns every year as often as possible, from Edinburgh, the lack of respect shown to our county is deplorable. Caithness has always been a sanctuary from the madness of the city but the NC 500 seems to have backfired and brought the worst of human behaviour with it.
I hope and pray that a solution is found before any more significant damage is done.
Thankyou Jean, I am hoping for that too.
Your words reflect my pain and the constant heaviness in my heart 💔
I’m glad the post resonated for you Louise. I’m also sorry for, and understanding of, your pain.
As a long time campervanner I am extremely sad to read this. I have lived in the highlands for almost half a century and every summer I see this occupation by tourists. But we need tourists, so we don’t say anything. Now, our village homes are being bought up as “boltholes’ and ‘holiday homes’ and our youngsters have to move away because they can’t afford to compete with the bankers and the IT people and the teachers and those who occupy their purchases for a few weekends a year, leaving our villages like ghost towns during the winter months. These issues are bigger than the NC500. Try to find a parking place in Aviemore during the crazy months of July and August. For too long the likes of VisitScotland has been promoting Scotland like mad with very little concern for the lack of infrastructure. Now it’s down to Highland Council to solve the problems created by VS and the NC500. I wonder how often those who benefit from such tourism put their hands in their pocket and contribute to such infrastructure? Not very often I would guess while the rest of us, the ratepayers and the tax payers, have to stump up so a few hotels and bars and B*B’s enjoy their profits. There’s something very wrong going on.
This is the truth Cameron, we need to spend on the the infrastructure like NZ, they got it right. It’s probably not to late for Scotland if we spend the money, but it must be now (and I mean NOW).
You’re right Cameron, there’s something very wrong and it’s wider than the NC500. We also own a campervan – like you I’m sad about what’s going on. It’s been painful to observe the over promotion of place and resulting detrimental impact. I don’t have the answers on how to fix things, but it feels like a shift is needed – soon.
I read your article with interest as I am what I hope is a responsible motor home owner. As you also own a campervan I wondered where you go on holiday? And how do you think the locals feel about you camping in yours? The problem is not just limited to the NC500. I was born in Cornwall and for the last 60 odd years have always lived here. Every year millions of people descend on what used to be quiet roads and villages, possibly even you have visited. The problems you describe are minuscule compared to the devastation that occurs here every summer, so, is the answer that we stop all tourist travel? That’s not realistic so the answer is to encourage people to act more responsibly lest we be accused of nimbyism.
Hi Glenn. I appreciate where you are coming from with regards to issues elsewhere in the country, and our own ownership of a campervan. I know many areas around the UK struggle with overtourism – it’s a challenging situation and I have every sympathy on that. I’ve written about the NC500 as it’s where I live and the basis of my own experience. The issues here don’t feel miniscule for local residents – I also realise their significance may appear diminished when viewed through the lens of another place. I have written mainly about one beach, but similar things are happening in areas impacted by the NC500 daily. With regards to us owning a campervan – absolutely, we are all at times either visitors or local residents and it’s important to be mindful that the places we visit are also other people’s homes. I would like to think that is something we’ve always reflected in our behaviours, and an attitude we will continue to foster when we resume travelling in the future. I don’t have all the answers on how things need to change but I do think it’s important to raise awareness. Thanks for taking the time to read the piece.
Aye Cameron.You are right on every point you make. Some of us were warning the HIDB and Local Ath s and politicians back in the 70 s and 80 that to base the Highland economy on tourism would eventually be a disaster. Nobody would listen.
Now you have the current situation/crisis compounded with the huge dumps of human waste oin and on the dunes and riversides. What evryone who cleans up the mess left by these delinquents should be aware of is the RISK of Contracting GIARDIA [Giardia is transmitted through ingestion of infective cyst stage shed in human or animal faeces and might be present in faecally contaminated water] Are our burns safe these days ???]
Those who are making money from the Pandemic/Tourist Boom.say little and contribute even less to infrastructure or cleaning up the coastline and watercourses…
If I put on my most depressing hat. The Highlands are on the verge of final collapse from the madness of the urban invaders who think they own the “right” to do as they please whilst on their “holidays”…Folk from the south ,that includes the Scottish Central Belt and beyond to England. [ Yes….. it is not everyone,but, it is far too many !!]
When you look at most European countries and how they are happy to welcome tourists and campervan owners to their communities.. AYE…they have INFRASTRUCTURE…PROPER TOILETS AND SHOWERS AND PLUG IN ELECTRIC..and that can be in relatively small towns and even bigger villages..
In the words of an old song I recall..”When will we ever learn”
Graham Noble
As someone who works within maintenance for the Highland Council (not in roads etc) I speak with colleagues regularly who are growing increasingly frustrated with the lack of funding to address issues caused by this route. We literally have thousands of miles of roads to maintain and ever decreasing funds. It’s an impossible situation and is also reflected in the inability to maintain and run/keep open toilet facilities among many other services. Visitor numbers increasing year in year as budgets are squeezed is unsustainable.
This is so true. Sad that we have come to this. ”Lets go to the countryside and trash it.”
Its strange that the old idea of a motoring tour was to stay each night in a hotel or b&b…possibly the original concept for the NC500….yet in France we see strings of motorhomes parked for the Tour de France…and the infrastructure seems to cope. So is it the Brits as a people, the laws, or the infrastructure that makes for dirty camping?
I think it’s a huge mix of things, including the ones you mention. Across the UK as a whole we have attitudinal issues with litter and that’s something which really needs to be addressed. In the past couple of summers, the NC500 has brought a lot of visitors who might previously have chosen other destinations, and perhaps aren’t used to rural experiences. Also, the desire to ‘wild camp’ has increased significantly, often without a proper understanding of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
I think you’re on to something. Skye in 2019 was busy, but we weren’t finding human waste and scorch marks everywhere. At the campsite where I work our customers were largely European, now it’s waves of Brits, many of whom are new to camping or campervaning and seem to carry a sense of entitlement not present in tourists from across the Channel.
Excellent article. Caithness holds a massive place in my heart having lived there for 12 years from the late 1990s until 2010. The NC500 was just gearing up as I left. At the time, I seriously questioned the impact it might have. I understood the need for tourism but wondered how much revenue a host of 1 night “wild campers” (I hate that term.. what they are doing is NOT wild camping!) in their own motorised accommodation generate? And even if they were in cars utilising B&Bs – one night stays, to me, were a lot of work for little return.
And then – the lack of infrastructure… to me, this was the main attraction of the route. To fill it with infrastructure would take away the reason I loved it! To go ahead with the plans, without the infrastructure though, would create a much worse outcome…at the time, I was concerned.
Fast forward to 2020/2021…the pandemic has created a perfect storm. Not only along the NC500, I now live in the Lake District – it’s grim here too! People HAVE to “staycation” – so what better way to do this than buy a camper van and head out on the road? The problem seems to be a lack of education.. people new to the great outdoors not really understanding the impact their actions are having. The firepits on Dunnet Beach – I suppose you could say the perpetrators assume the charred remains are biodegradable/natural products – wood & burnt stone – they don’t think about it’s visual impact nor that breaking down trees for fuel is just plain wrong! Here in Cumbria we’ve had people pulling up fence posts for fuel as well… go figure! 🤔
The toilet mess to me is unforgivable – how can you come to a place of outstanding natural beauty, presumably because that is exactly what it is, and you love it… and then leave that all over it? I don’t get it! But the same is happening here, in the Lake District.
I wish I had an answer. It’s frustrating and infuriating and very sad. I have cycled the NC500 in sections many times in the past. I won’t be doing it any time soon though.
A thoughtful article. We have been visiting the Assynt area for over 30 years, but now think twice due to the aforementioned issues that you define. I think it is a wider problem than just the NC500 as the outdoor industry have been pushing that “Wild Camping” vibe for years now.
Pick up any outdoor publication and you will find at least one article. Even those vacuous in-flight magazines trying to reintroduce us to the hip world of the ‘in-crowd’, have people believe that you must “Wild Camp” or somehow you are missing out.
Unfortunately, the bad news is that the vast majority of camping that you see on our coastal sites is not true wild camping, with idiots rocking up with barrow loads of kit.
I have no answer either but it seems the natural environment will always suffer as a consequence.
Sadly there will always be those who will not respect the environment or the needs of the local people en route. But there are many more campers who do and many who will take the time to collect others litter while enjoying their own visit.
The NC 500 as it’s been called is a victim of its own success; Scottish tourism called out for tourists to come and visit and boost the economy with little or no thought of an infrastructure to cope with it. The people came but the facilities didn’t and it’s the campers turning up who don’t realise that they won’t have the luxury of toilet blocks and litter bins that improvise because they weren’t prepared. I have a campervan but am always prepared for lack of toilets and have my own, as well as ample bin bags and bivvy bags because I’ve researched what is and isn’t available. Campers and visitors come and go but the local people are having to deal with the fallout so please lobby your authorities to provide the relevant infrastructure and provide more information to visitors as to what to expect and how to best respect the environment, leaving no impact. Most people who want to visit in their vans also don’t want to be greeted with human waste and litter and are equally appalled by it. I’ve not been on this trip as yet but would love to. I’m a 65 year old woman, a photographer and retired police officer so please don’t tar me with the same brush as those irresponsible campers who simply want to tick off this route on their bucket list. I want to explore my beautiful country while I’m still fit and able and not only experience the wonders that nature provides on our doorstep but capture those moments forever on my camera. I’m sure I’ll be greeted with the same kindness from the locals that I’ll be bringing with me.
‘Take only photographs, leave only footprints’
What a beautiful, well written article, but how sad is it that it needed to be written in the first place? I live in the south east, so rarely get up to Scotland. I have fond memories of a tour of the west coast 50 years ago, and 12 years ago I attended a wedding on the banks of Loch Lomond, so incorporated a tour of that area in my stay, such a beautiful country. A few years ago I was lucky enough to visit New Zealand, I stayed in B& Bs and motels, but I was staggered at the number of camper vans on the road….but, to be fair, they were managed very well, I didn’t encounter any mess anywhere I visited. Unfortunately the problem is not confined to the north of the U.K., young people in Cornwall have no hope of buying a property, and villages are dead in the winter as all the holiday homes are closed up.
This autumn I intend to tour the East coast of Scotland, travelling up from Edinburgh, up to Thurso and maybe going across to Orkney and getting along the North coast as far as Durness. I am not racing round the NC 500 in 5 days – how do you see anything? I am going to take 6 weeks, yes I will be towing a caravan, but I will be using Caravan Club sites and using them as bases and travelling from there. I will be eating out in restaurants sometimes, and buying food in local shops. We are not all the same.
One idea came to me as I read your wonderful article…you mention beach cleans, could you advertise these on the NC500 Facebook pages, perhaps visitors could join you? Probably not the idiots racing around in 5 days, but those of us who truly want to explore and enjoy and have the time to stop would be happy to help out.
👍 excellent comment my partner and I have done six week tours for the last four years and loved every moment and every place we’ve been to loved the locals and local food and shops, unfortunately due to my work we can only come late October through to mid December and find much of the infrastructure closed by end of October even finding fresh water is a task we always try to find caravan and Motorhome club sites to stay overnight or every fourth or fifth night to charge up and responsibly dispose of our rubbish and waste but some of them are profiteering just to empty waste and the odd bin bag of rubbish and a water fill at over ten pounds I would willingly pay a few quid or a fiver and so would others but ten pounds at time is a bit rich
This problem has been going on for over 40 years, I am on now living on Skye and have watched as the tourism boards commoditized a way of life and landscape without any thought, understanding nor care for those whose lives they were selling, and then sold them on to the voracious consumer without any consideration of the moral aspects of effectively selling someone’s way of life, peace, mental health, freedom and knowledge without their consent. I saw this happen in Whitby North Yorkshire before we recoated to Skye due to the tourism issue, local fishermen turned into curiosities to be marketed as “local culture”, I once had tourists just walk into my cottage, commenting “isn’t this quaint tom”, only for the wife to be shocked when she turned round and saw a grown man, freshly showered and wrapped in a towel, enter from the staircase wanting to know who was in his home, they thought it was a “museum” because the front door was old. While ever we have a culture that “sells” everything, even the wild landscapes and folks emotions ie “read the romantic tales you will hear and the history of the area” aka peoples souls, then this is only going to get worse, the solution is to dismantle national tourism boards, return power to local communities start licensing visitors and put a significant price on folk “buying” said communities peace, tranquility, knowledge and assets both visible and invisible. Maybe then when houses are sold communities will get together buy them from the folk who are selling them and retain them for local families, I know of one community in Yorkshire where you cannot move into nor buy a house unless you go through a Trust set up by the original landowners to protect the community from to many incomers or price gouging, in effect you have to be “vetted” as to your contribution to the community via skill sets, commitment etc to be able to join it, it has stayed healthy and well for over a 100 years so far. My peace and quiet isn`t for sale and if you do that over my head then you are in effect raping my soul, this may sound extreme but it only shows how far society has fallen to fail to understand this concept. As city dwellers are entitled to a reasonable level of peace and quiet from their neighbors, so are rural dwellers from tourists, what is tolerable to those who choose to live in noisy places is not tolerable for those who do not. Hopefully climate change will wreak its own form of restrictions on tourism and or communities will start to fight back and take proper control over who is selling their air, land, souls and culture. Its a good article, while I still say you are pulling your punches my heart gets why you can feel so desolate about what is being taken away from you without your consent, its nothing less than a form of social, mental and spiritual abuse and its time we started using that word more often.
Excellent article Gail. We live in East Lothian and see the impact Wild Camping is having on our local beaches / woodland . One weekend alone I believe there were over a 100 wild campers at Yellowcraigs beach . There is never a visit when we don’t have to pick up all kinds of litter .
Thank you for putting me off driving the NC500 anytime soon. I would like to suggest you can put more people off by stopping clearing up after them. I know you mean well but your current approach to the issue clearly isn’t working. Everyone who lives in a tourist area or just wants to see their local area clean and tidy, “like it used to be” appears to have an obsession for cleaning up after other people.
If you follow a child around and hang up all the clothes they lay waste on their bedroom floor, and do all their washing, even after showing them how to use a washing machine, clothes line, dryer, iron and ironing board, then they will never learn to do these things for themselves. I have met university students and post grads who seemed to think a magical fairy cleaned up after them, so living away from home amounted to having just enough clothes to be able to bag and take home every other weekend.
“If you build it they will come” is a true adage but if you don’t clear up after them, they will stop coming. As your communities don’t rely on tourism, perhaps next year you can all band together and agree not to clean up after the tourists. After a while, the local authority will notice, as locals will tell them, and they will invest in doing something about it. They too will complain to the government because the clean up costs will be coming out of funds they didn’t budget for. Finally, the government may recognise there is an additional cost when encouraging tourism, and help the local authorities financially, so with help from local Councillors, a long-term strategy can be developed.
Perhaps a year or two of everyone seeing the filth left by tourists will enable communities throughout the area to educate visitors visually, and the measures that have to be taken to enable the beauty to be experienced by everyone and not spoiled by people who were probably 6 before they learnt to wipe their own bottom.
Cllr John Gurney
Dunstable Town Council
Cllr Gurney, With respect thats a poorly argued case.
This is not an “an obsession for cleaning up after other people.” Its a deep respect for a place, one’s home, family and community. And trying to balance that with the need for incomes (from eg tourism) in marginal economic areas.
Is the approach you suggest working for you in Dunstable? Has the Council stopped providing street cleaning & litter picking to “teach the residents a lesson on cleanliness”? Despite its remoteness I’ve visited Dunstable on many occasions and in fact was there last week, and there was certainly as much litter in evidence as on my previous (numerous) visits. When does your leave-the-litter experiment there end?
You said: ““If you build it they will come” is a true adage but if you don’t clear up after them, they will stop coming.” and then you added “Perhaps a year or two of everyone seeing the filth left by tourists will enable communities throughout the area to educate visitors visually”
If its such a mess that visitors don’t come, how can you educate them? And why should we local Highland residents have to look at piles of others people’s refuse whilst hoping ‘that will teach the blighters a lesson’?
I’m sure you mean well, but something you apparently fail to understand (as a non-Highland/rural) resident is that the knock on effect of that litter if left lying about is significant pollution, damage to wildlife & domestic stock, marine pollution, and a health risk to all.
Simply ‘stopping cleaning up after them’ is a short-sighted and futile response. It may also give the clear visual message to other visitors that “nobody cares about this place so why should I?”
This is a complex issue and one that needs careful and long-term management, involving many different agencies and interest groups, but primarily the engagement of the people who live in these communities and whose daily lives are impacted (both positively and negatively) and who should have some locus in the provision of solutions.
Interesting comment John, but in the intervening years between paradise and squalor people like me live there. The prospect of living knee deep in the detritus of thoughtless, selfish, filthy tourists in an attempt to ‘teach ’em a lesson’ is unacceptable. It smacks of throwing the baby out with the bathwater – as it wouldn’t be just the filthy tourists (often freeloading campers) who’d stop coming, but the vast majority of respectful tourist who stay in local hotels, B&Bs, etc. and actually make a valuable contribution to the local economy.
You expect people to live in filth for a year just to prove a point?
And you’re a councillour?
Concerning.
Permit me to indulge by re-naming the NC500 ‘The North CURSE 500’!!!
It’s happening everywhere, I live in a quiet (formerly) valley in Cornwall, human waste, toilet paper, wet wipes, bottles, nail/scaffolding edge infested wood left from campfires. Even rental campers rocking up to quiet places (or in the middle of local town releasing waste water in car park!). Anyone commenting on the nearby availability of campsites is given a torrent of abuse. I’ve always been tolerant of people camping locally for one night on the coast path, leaving no mess and being friendly………. that tolerance is fading rapidly. On a lighter note, last summer there were people complaining about the lack of a beach (the tide was in!)
This surely isn’t a serious response?! This is a ridiculous proposal on how to deal with miscreant visitors. Locals « tolerate » living in unsanitary conditions during a pandemic, until such times the next lot of transients decide not to comeback because it’s unsightly and insanitary. You advocate teaching children to pick up after themselves, generally in the same home, not scattered across the open countryside hundreds of miles from that home! How about another radical idea? People who wish to come camping and caravaning have to pass a « How to behave in the countryside » test, get a licence for same, then have to pay to go there to cover the additional costs of cleaning up after them and the additional cost of new / upgraded infrastructure. I don’t imagine that would be very popular either, but some compromise between that and more general education of how to look after our countryside to protect its habitats, flora, fauna and population needs to be instigated both in schools and the community. People just need to be considerate, responsible and courteous. It shouldn’t be this hard!
What a superb piece of writing highlighting in a totally reasonable way all of the issues. You write beautifully with reason which is so much more powerful than just complaining, we do have to try and understand and find solutions rather than empty aggressive rhetoric. I live in the north of Skye and pre covid it was getting possibly ‘as bad’ as the NC 500 with car park rage and blocked roads. At present I think we are surviving, but it isn’t sustainable and It is probably up to us inhabitants to find solutions, it will be a long wait to expect the agencies and authorities to come up with anything practical. Keep on writing.
Thankyou John.
As a former countryside ranger with the NTS, I have witnessed most of what you have mentioned. How sad it is that the beauty that attracts some folk to a place is the very thing they will mindlessly destroy. I have my own tales to tell, but I think your excellent, but sad, article says it all.
Thankyou Joe. I’m sure the memoirs of a countryside ranger would make for a very interesting read.
I have a compost toilet, fridge, oven and hob and litter pick where I stop. Firstly I think Scotland should issue a paid for New Zealand style permit to self contained vans that have their own toilet facilities – no permit = no camping – and then ‘wild’ campers pay £3 to wild camp via SMS and add registration number – I have nothing to hide.. Secondly there needs to be better provision of cheap, one night campsites. As a single person I cannot justify £30 to £50 a night when all I need is a square of tarmac and many sites insist on a 3 night minimum booking – how does this put money back in local economy? Thirdly provision of £3 to £5 Chemical Disposal Points would help the responsible owners and should also be provided by hire companies at end of hire as it is ridiculous they have to be returned with an empty toilet as this is a logistical nightmare for hirers. More importantly sadly the irresponsible minority tar us all with same brush.
Spot on! We’ve travelled NZ, Aus and Europe in a campervan and found NZ self containment permit to be the a great solution to these sorts of problems. No self containment then you fork out for a paid site with a simple drop toilet or a holiday park. If you’re self-contained you can overnight park for free in designated areas. Self contained being – freshwater, a sink, a grey water tank, a refuse container and a portable toilet etc. Other countries have similar things in place to provide tailored solutions to these sorts of problems.
The problem is overnight parking in the UK is seen as a grey area rather than an accepted viable travel option in a motorhome/campervan. It’s growing in popularity exponentially but due to the lack of proper infrastructure motorhome owners are being met with hostility. Good overnight parking spots often mean more footfall in small towns and villages that wouldn’t otherwise see tourism. Local councils can even charge a small fee for use of the facilities and create seasonal jobs for ‘rangers’ to police problem areas.
There is no denying these problems come from lack of education but they do affect many tourist destinations across the UK including our home base in Pembrokeshire. I think it’s obvious very simple infrastructure (that has minimal environmental impact) needs to be provided for those wishing to travel in a motorhome. Much like other countries who’ve been tackling these problems for years. It’s time the UK caught up!
Your comments about local stories makes me think we need a new John MacGrath or 7:84 to write the 21st century version of ‘The Cheviot, the Stag and the Black, Black Oil’. The NC500 is certainly another episode in the fraught history of the Highlands.
France and the UK have the same saying “the countryside is for everyone”. In France it means leave as found so those that those who live here are not inconvenienced and that the next person who travels into the area can also enjoy.
In the UK it seems to mean it’s mine too so I do as I want.
Shame because the North of Scotland can’t be beaten on scenery or hospitality.
Many years ago we spent our honeymoon riding a motorcycle on the coast road that is now called the NC500, the welcome and friendliness of the locals, the unspoilt beauty of the Highlands would stay with me for the rest of my life, I would love to return but not as part of this commercial escapade, the article is so right, its now just a destination akin to Rome or Venice, a tick box that must be done.
This year we visited the peninsular above Mull to avoid the free for all of campervans and campers,the majority giving nothing to the local economy except damaged roads and litter on the NC500.
We will return but not as part of this tick the box madness, our hearts go out to the residents who have to live with this on a daily basis.
An article from the heart.
We had a brief trip to Skye in July, revisiting the nostalgia of my childhood memories and adding the place-names to my MLitt dissertation on the subject of tourists who have no idea about the meaning behind the place-names other than their own self gratification and ticks in the box.
I’ve yet to write to the Outdoor Access folks who manage the ‘Fairy Pools Car Park’ on behalf of the Minginish Community Hall Society, but this whole ‘Fairy Pools’ dipping theme from thousands of trippers is not right, it’s unsustainable and environmentally detrimental especially the ‘tombstoners’, complete in their outfits, so definitely not spontaneous, jumping down from the heights into pools with very little water. While the ‘audience’ was filming them, I was photographing the audience. Meanwhile, their very selfish ‘thrill-seeking’ kicks could have resulted in injury pr worse, without any consideration to the the emergency services who would then have to be called out, which, ironically had happened previously.
Keep writing, keep sharing and maybe, just maybe, the ‘dirty campers’ will grow a conscience, though I doubt it.
I’m sorry to say it isn’t just the NC 500.
I feel like we are we’ve we’ve been left, abandoned, by Highland Council, The Scottish Government, NatureScot and VisitScotland. I have it in writing from the Highland Council that , ‘Anyone who pitches a tent and encamps within a public road commits an offence in terms of Section 129(4) of the Roads (Scotland) Act 1984. The road, by its definition and description in the list of public roads, extends to 3.0 metres from the edge of the bituminous surface in open (unfenced) ground irrespective of who may own the solum of the road.’ Additionally, the Scottish Outdoor Access Code says ‘
Access rights do not include motor vehicles. If public or private land owners restrict or regulate parking on their land, you must comply with this.’
But nobody in authority will enforce this. The news that people are being fined for ‘wild camping’ would spread pretty fast on social media and hopefully not take long to improve matters. Checkout Calmac’s website – if you start to make a booking for Mull, Coll, Tiree or the Western Isles you’re told that if you’re camping in a tent or with campervan, motorhome or caravan you must book your pitch before booking a ferry and that camping at the roadside is forbidden. It should be forbidden in The Highlands too. We should be caring for the environment, the tourists who stay with local accommodation providers, and ourselves and stop being held hostage by freeloading, often dirty ‘wild campers’ who on the whole have a negative impact on the economy, infrastructure, and environment.
Such a sad read, but shockingly similar to others I’ve heard across the UK, and in NZ & USA.
I was brought up in Sutherland, but work in Wales these days – dealing with this issue.
From the contact I’ve had with Highlands Council, I’d say that you are years ahead of us. At least HC recognise the need for expanded, improved infrastructure and staffing. I can see it taking a couple of years to build that infrastructure.
Although NC500 has worsened the situation, the same overtourism is hitting all of the National Parks and AONBs (NSAs to you) – building up over the past 10 years.
I haven’t found a solution yet – other than funding, infrastructure and staffing. After all, it must be worth investing in if it’s bringing in £20 m?
Most of the solutions lie with HE – all I can suggest is keeping the pressure on your Councillors to address the problems.
But don’t give up – and don’t take advice from Dunstable!
Best wishes from South Wales!
I totally agree with the above comments. I’m Welsh and we have the exact same problem for a number of years now even pre covid. Local people have been priced out of the housing market owing to people buying holiday homes, schools have been closed down and communities in winter are non existent… people are only employed seasonally. All the young people are leaving due to the situation with the government now having to protect a percentage of new builds for local people with some locals only selling houses to those employed in the county or neighbouring counties. I came to do the Hebridean way believing I would get isolation and reset my brain after 15 months of working in ITU. As I cycled along watching hoardes of camper vans and vans I saw what can only be described as desecration of a once peaceful land. On one particularly bad night as I was getting sprayed with road surface water by said vehicles I realised most only had 2 people in and wondered how on earth roads could hold up to continuous strain from gas guzzling polluting vehicles. How can this possibly be termed “wild camping”? The ethos is leave no trace both visible and invisible surely? It is a tragedy of the commons in that if everyone takes a piece of the environment or damage a piece no matter how small, there will eventually be nothing left. I wild camped the hebridean way and Caledonian with my bike and bivy bag on one bad night there was no where to stay everything was booked up so stuck it out. I put my head down when it was dark and got cycling when light… No one knew I was there.. and seeing wildlife no one else will ever see. Society has become hypocritical we pay for habitat to increase animal population size so we can destroy it by bringing vehicles… believing its our right to see where and how our money is spent. We are forgetting that we are in nature’s environment not nature in ours. Will we become like Spain and Portugal where the Lynx habitat has all but gone with the exception of high wired fences containing a few 100 acres of land with quaint costal communities having sprawling masses of new builds because our pensions aren’t performing? The cycle routes on the Caledonian route were exceptional and yet empty. Perfect for me but what about the roads. I was going to cycle the NC500 but didn’t because I would never have been able to enjoy the intrinsic value with vans campervans etc whizzing past and views obscured by them in viewpoints. We have learned little in covid.. we missed our freedom and life experiences but got out at the first break of freedom like caged animals with the gate left open… ironically its what nature’s habitat has become as a consequence of our actions..caged.. and we are subjected to the imprisonment of stress from driving and fighting for space and of our own actions. Shame on us. Actions:Personally i would propose an extra charge should be put in place by way of tolls as in the rockies in Canada, as you slow down a list of dos and don’t are outside the toll booths, and above all enforcement… I don’t know how many campervans were parked in laybys clearly stating no overnight parking. In Austria the Tyrol you must camp in designated areas and are only allowed to use bivy bags for 1 night in each place. There are huts only used for walkers and cyclists and climbers where they can stay for a small fee if members of the Austrian Alpine club and those in charge of the huts keep an eye on those who camp for more than 1 night. Change must happen and now. I hadn’t visited Scotland for 15 years and was saddened. My grandfather from the Highlands would turn in his grave seeing such beautiful countryside desecrated. I’ve always practiced bushcraft as opposed to wildcamping and hate the later term these days it no longer means man or woman in nature, more like I’ll enjoy driving through the countryside take what’s mine and leave other generations present and future to clean up and find solutions for the desecration we cause on those without a voice the silent ones being nature and those yet to be born our children not yet upon this earth. Change needs to occur and and by all of us as soon as we can science cannot find an answer to save a planet.. How can it.. when we are struggling to save Scotland?
Well done, this needs to be talked about more. I worked in Wick the year before and after the launch of the NC500 and, even at that point, heard the early warning notes of a region about to be overwhelmed.
The ‘wild camping, permits around Loch Lomond and other Camping Management Areas may prove a way forward
I’m visiting next month on my motorcycle. I’d be more than willing to join a litter pick as part of my toll for the upkeep of your countryside. 2 hours spent litterpicking is a small fee. I’m staying in B&B.s. so no wild camping for me.
Thanks for a well thought out and articulate blog Anthea. I really feel for the North West Highlands and the monster that is now the NC500. I know what you have experienced as I work in Loch Lomond National Park – the last two summers have been, as much as I hate using this word now, unprecedented.
In terms of the NC500, I feel it has been hijacked by the driving fraternity. It was launched by Mark Beaumont doing a non-stop cycle ride and initial promotion was equally focused on cycle touring, golf, walking and food. Now it seems to be just a road trip for many with short stops at the famous places. A bunch of us slow cycled it over 11 days in 2016, staying at campsites, bunkhouses and bothies and stopped for lunch at local businesses every day along the way. The motorhome market in particular has no need to do this so it is no wonder many locals feel it is passing them by.
The causes are complex and have been building gradually for decades – easier access to the Highlands, lack of investment in visitor infrastructure, living in an information age where everything is just a click and a link away and the “get rich quick” experience culture – but it has been the pandemic that has seen the floodgates blown wide open. Organisations like Visit Scotland have known for years that visitor behaviour and holiday experiences were changing. They have become more independent and more mobile and the increase in camper vanning and motor homes has been obvious for 5 years plus but not one organisation has had any foresight or strategic plan to accommodate these changes. That has to change.
I wish I had a simple answer but I’m afraid the genie is out of the bottle. I miss the days where after a long day on the hills, I could come down to a lochside like Torridon, park up, bivvy by the waters edge and be gone in the morning, without being despised or told to move on. Long term education and investment along with local community empowerment is the only way forward.
Regards
Dave Robinson
I hate to raise this…but it is not just Highland Council…here in Edinburgh the state of the roads is utterly shameful. For a capital city, with multiple festivals currently taking place, the half of the city that is not dug up for the trams or closed for the installation of wifi cable (or indeed randomly closed by Historic Scotland) is riddled with potholes. City of Edinburgh Council should hang their heads in shame.
And then, here in the seaside suburb of Portobello, we have wild camping on the beach and people sleeping in vans…the issues here being unrelated to the actual sleeping and, rather, entirely related to the lack of toilets.
There are two toilet blocks (with perhaps 6 stalls in one and 12 stalls in the other) – both of which close in the early evening; there are over 6000 visitors to the Prom and beach on hot days…and around 500 people are on the beach overnight with another 100 or so sleeping in vans.
As a result, residents find that their communal stairs, private gardens, public parks and little lanes are effectively public toilets with all the health hazards that come with urination and defecation and discarding of used sanitary products with nobody being responsible…well, other than the Council Tax paying citizens who have to both put up with the annoyance and clear up after people. I opened my front door one evening to find a young woman squatting in the gutter less than a metre from my home, performing her bodily functions in a space between two parked vehicles. In addition to both liquid and semi-solid waste, she also left a used tampon for someone else – me – to clear up. On being challenged, she turned to me as said “I’ve got the Covid and I’ll spit in your face you c*nt…and I know where you live and I’ll come back and put my bloody rags through your letter box.”
And Edinburgh Police Division do absolutely nothing to help…despite the fact that, in Scotland, urinating or defecating in such a manner as to cause, or likely to cause annoyance to any other person is a criminal offence as per Civic Government (Scotland) Act 1982, Section 47 and consequently is a matter that should be dealt with by the Police. In fact, instead of helping the residents to deal with criminal behaviour, the Police patrols themselves have been seen using the lane I live in to urinate.
Local authorities and the national government need to do something to support communities that are being impacted on!
“I thought about broken windows, the idea that a house left with one broken window would soon have all the others smashed, the sign of a place uncared for, abandoned. It felt like everywhere I looked, the windows were getting broken”
Perfect description of what is happening with the NC500.
This blog raises several issues with the current route.. the serious lack of investment and duty of care to those who live along it by those promoting it.
Hospitality and tolerance can only last so long. Locals patience isn’t infinite and we’re at risk of destroying the very thing that makes the route so special.
I am unsurprised by communities along the route now considering the option of disassociating itself with the route. It’s the latest example of Highlanders being patronised and ignored by people who claim to have their best interests at heart.
The problem will be less next year as international borders reopen. Most people will head off into Europe and your NC500 levels should drop all being well.
I really don’t see why you can’t just start fining people, for wild camping or even seize vehicles and tow them. Do it enough and people will stop coming and the problem will end. I don’t think at this point in time you can just move in to a management phase. You would be best to nip it in the bud now and stop it completely. Then in a year or two after putting some infrastructure in place, gradually reintroduce it, but maybe with a permit system. £100 for 2 weeks. With that permit you can stop in council run, aires style car parks for 2 nights only. Every town has a car park somewhere with 5 spaces for campervans, be it in the middle of town or on the outskirts. Parking anywhere else gets you a £250 fine. If you get more than one fine your vehicle gets towed. You, the people that live in those areas, run the tourism the way you want to run it, not the way other people want it. If every town and maybe village has a 5 space car park for motorhomes to use, it has bins and possibly a dump point, then you are giving people the things they need to responsibly camp in your towns and villages, while affording them the opportunity to spend money in your shops.
As for people buying boltholes, I can’t suggest anything for that besides having a by-law that requires a person buying a house to live in it for at least 6 months of the year or have it taken back via a CPO, if those exist in Scotland. It is one of the ideas that has been bandied about in Cornwall, on and off for about the last ten years.
I hope to visit Scotland at some point, but you will never see me on the NC500. I value peace and quiet and have had a hankering towards visiting Uist for some years, so that is likely where I will go.
Excellent article as usual, Gail. Thank you for raising awareness. ⭐️💐🦋
Thankyou Mandy. x
I travel to North Wales to visit family and am shocked by the traffic, abuse of the countryside and the fact that people have no regard for the local environment.
Whilst the lack of air travel helps the climate, I am sorry to say I cannot wait for people to restart their travels abroad!! I can then start visiting my family again and respecting the countryside where I grew up.
Sadly ‘Rome’ has reached the edges of Europe.
I have read and read all the above comments and how lucky you all are to have the privilege of living in such beautiful areas. I myself do not, so in order to enjoy our god given amazing planet I have to travel. We got married in Scotland and continued to return many times, my husband is a keen photographer. We do travel in a motorhome as we cannot afford the accommodation for both of us and our dogs. We respect the land, not because you live there but because it is the right thing to do. Should we not be allowed…Should the people that drive through my town, causing potholes, to travel to work not be allowed. My children cannot afford to buy where they were born, Should we not have children. I understand the frustration, it is happening everywhere. The society in which we all live has changed so much, but ask ourselves who has created that society. I feel very sad that the place I held in my heart will no longer welcome me back.
I live in the south of England and have just completed the NC500, we toured staying in hotels and B&Bs along the route. I absolutely concur with all the complaints I have been reading across this post and there is a simple answer that would alleviate a large percentage of these issues. Ban wild camping, and ban lighting fires in public places. I must admit as we travelled the north and west coast there was a real shortage of facilities, why have councils not built remote purpose built bin corrals to allow tourists to sensibly dispose of their rubbish as designated places. The one statement I found myself and my wife repeating was “there’s a real lack of bins around here” particularly at designated viewpoints and car parks etc… We also witnessed a number of dog owners who had absolutely no intention of picking up their dogs waste, I challenged a few to receive verbal abuse. The NC500 can’t be blamed for the minority social miss-fits that venture its legacy, however, the tightening of laws and payable on spot fines for those who fit the criteria would go along way to resolving or hugely reducing the waste, camp fire and toileting issues. Thank you highlanders for your hospitality.
I have recently completed the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland. It to is being advertised like the NC500 as a must see tourist route. The difference is that in Ireland I did not see any litter at beauty spots or on beaches. Every where you go along the route there are recycling bins and are well used. What you won’t see is litter bins, everyone just take their rubbish away. So refreshing to see responsible tourists .
I’m afraid anywhere scenic and secluded gets the tourist circus trailing through nowadays and I’m seeing Northumberland go this way too. It’s a nice feeling having a whole beach to yourself as the sun sets, can’t last I guess.
Education is definitely a way forward but it’s how to get the message over without having a thousand signs up ruining the views. Media like youtube is partially responsible for the influx so maybe a stronger message about respect should be pushed on there, a promotional film about the damage and how to respect a place when you visit could be done.
Wild camping brings a range of people, mostly respectful but unfortunately there’s always that minority element that have all the gear and no idea, controversial but maybe a summer ban on wild camping to thin out the fairweather wannabes (did I just suggest that)
Maybe a leaf could be taken from France and its campsite infrastructure which would bring revenue and hopefully remove the waste issue and scenic damage.
There’s definitely a lot to discuss and it needs to happen now. Looking at what works elsewhere is key.
I guess there’s some understanding of why there is some animosity towards British holidaymakers abroad. Lol
interesting the number of folk commenting who also use a campervan. they claim not to be part of the problem. which is disingenuous, as at least part of the problem is cumulative impact- noise, pollution, wear on roads, loss of amenity to those who prefer a traffic free area, and a view unimpeded by a van.
however, i agree we need to restore the link between those who benefit- business, individuals,- and those who pay- local communities, the environment. to do so, we need more strategic thinking and action. NC500 promotion with no facilities? whose bright idea was that?
elsewhere, hypothicated tourist tax, with regulation to prevent market failure.
and sustainable tourism charter https://www.europarc.org/library/europarc-events-and-programmes/european-charter-for-sustainable-tourism/
and i dont underestimate the barriers to achieving this- mainly vested interest and incompetence. and whilst it’s easy to say you voted for these people,the councillors who proposed/supported/permit the catastrophe,i would agree we have a poor shadow of democratic control (seee riddoch’s ‘blossom’ for details.)
only by coming together to work out for themselves what is best for them can communites -we- solve this problem. by writing such a passionate piece, you may have nudged people in that direction. my best wishes
Thanks for this well-considered and timely article. It’s not only the locals who are bothered by the NC500 but they are the ones most seriously affected. I’ve been travelling up to the Wester Ross area almost every summer since 2000 and loved staying in rental cottages and houses with friends. After 2015, things changed as the roads became busier and the relationship between locals and tourists deteriorated. I now avoid the route where possible and have not visited Applecross for four years.
I think you would find that if a well-advertised petition was raised to the Scottish Govt where not only locals but tourists could express their opinion, you might get a lot of support.
But thanks again.
Hi
Really sad to read all these negative posts.
Don’t get me wrong I understand why. But I’ve never been to the Highlands and plan on driving the route in October 2022. I have a small transit van sized campervan and the whole purpose of my trip is to explore the amazing landscape and photograph it. I won’t be wild camping, I’ll be using official campsites and contributing to then local economy. I won’t be littering (I may well tidy others rubbish as I go.) but this ground swell of hatred isn’t fair. It’s not all of us that are inconsiderate tourist fouling everywhere.
I don’t want to come back to my van to find that the wheels have been slashed or eggs thrown all over my vehicle as recent reports have said is happening. Tourists contribute £4.8 billion to the Scotttish economy. We aren’t all bad and we do help your businesses.
Why don’t you make the bealach na ba a toll road that way the toll booths can turn away the idiots in the 7m motor homes, the toll money can go towards fixing the pot holes. Ramp up the costs for 7m motor home car parking fees with specific car parks for them which have to be used so you control where they are parked. Finally heavily fine (and I mean hammer) the wild campers that are caught basically fly tipping.
This will result in a filtering of the type of tourist you get and in a couple of years things will have settled down to a sensible level.
Sadly this is not a problem just in the Highlands. Where I live on the outskirts of Perth is used as an overnight lorry park and is also a route through to an industrial estate. This year the litter picking group I belong to has picked 171 bags of rubbish! This summer I did most of the NC 500 and I loved it as did my kids and I am so glad that they had this wonderful experience. We were astounded by how spotless the area was thanks to litter pickers like yourself. Sadly it looks like the highlands are now experiencing what we have suffered from for years. We came to realise that unfortunately the only way to get rid of the litter/shopping trolleys/tvs etc is to do it yourself.
I live on the coast in Norfolk and appreciate the trouble you have, we have the same trouble with campervans, and our invaders park on the coast road we walk down, their waste water goes on the beach and they block the pavement with bbq parties, it can sometime take 12-15 minutes to drive 1/2 a mile of coast road and do they care? do they hell. Say anything and you get abuse back or worst, and they park on the road for free whereas opposite is a site they have to pay for. Mustn’t go on, only get upset.
As a motorhome owner born and bred in the Highlands I don’t know know of a motorhome that does not have toilet facilities Some converted vans and obviously tents don’t have this. Are coach built motorhomes being wrongly blamed?
Really well written. We live in Glencoe and I used to delight in showing off ‘my Scotland’ and all the secret spots. I’ve now actively stopped telling people any locals spots as I know they will get trashed. Makes me so angry.
This is a really well written piece and clearly it’s being widely shared – as it deserves. As you rightly point out, sadly the issues experienced by those who live on & close to the NC500 route aren’t unique to the Highlands, but as someone with family from Brora on the route I can well understand the issues.
I think it was Billy Bragg I heard on the radio last week making the point that the last two years have polarised people more than ever into those who willing do things for the greater good and those who simply do not care about that and act only in their self-interest… I thought that was a very good observation and unfortunately many of those who leave behind all the things you mention, both in the Highlands and elsewhere sadly seem to fall into the latter category.
One point I would make – I realise you repeatedly put the phrase wild camping in inverted commas, but please could I ask that you don’t use this term to describe the type of nuisance camping you are experiencing? True wild camping takes place mostly up in the hills or other locations far away from civilisation and strictly follows a Leave No Trace ethos. The antisocial campers leaving waste behind are not wild campers and the (widespread) mis-use of the term is sadly tarring those of us who do follow the Leave No Trace principles and equally despise the activities of those I personally think can only be termed ‘dirty campers’ – well I can think of some other words, but they aren’t very nice 😉
Hi Arran – thanks so much for your comment. I realise I do a disservice to true wild campers in the post, and hoped to mitigate this by using inverted commas in my terminology. Unfortunately, here in Caithness the term ‘wild camping’ has become part of the everyday lexicon to encompass any form of roadside/car/campervan/motorhome/beach camping, or any form of overnight stopping that does not involve staying in a formal site, whether a trace is left or not. I absolutely agree that this isn’t a true reflection of what wild camping is, and apologise for any sense of conflating this with ‘leave no trace’ principles. It would be helpful to find a suitable term to encompass all of this in future, however I also write within the context of my local community and its vernacular. Thankyou for helping me to consider how I might approach these complexities at a future point.
I have such strong feelings about this subject. Having grown up in a small village in Berkshire, I too have the mindset of looking after my surroundings for all to enjoy. Growing up I holidayed in Scotland for almost 40 years and even lived up near Nairn for 3 of those years, I have seen so much beauty tainted by human waste, bodily and otherwise. I have on numerous occasions buried what I couldn’t take with me and binned dozens of bin bags of rubbish. This being said, it has always been fairly tolerable and almost fully managed for the most part. I was so pleased to read that you and other locals are helping with the litter picking, job well done! Thank you.
I am a fisherman and photographer, a hiker and wild camping lover. As my back has given out it has meant that I have had to take to sleeping in, or near my van when I travel now. So luckily removing others’ waste has become easier, but no less frustrating. After my visit last July (the day the border opened up), I was mortified to see the swathes of litter in all of my favourite fishing spots around Loch Etive and Oban. As the trip went on and I moved up the west coast, I was shocked to see it continue.
Being a bit of a chatterbox, I conversed with a lot of the other anglers and campers touring the countryside and locals that I know already and met for the first time too. I always kept bringing the conversation back to the waste, when I could, and how bad it had gotten within the week or so that residents had been allowed to travel, and the few days that others had been allowed to join in. One point was repeated constantly as we chatted, that was the distinct lack of bins and bin collections/emptying. Villages would have recycling bins and waste bins overflowing. Bags piling up by the side of them with no sign of it being cleared. It was so disheartening. I ended up collecting 9 full bin bags of beer cans, BBQs and general rubbish that trip. I even gained a torn up tent with 3 smashed up camping chairs a long with a whole bin bag of Black Isle Brewery empties, not the sort of advertising that amazing little brewery deserves. Luckily I had met a few nice locals that let me dispose of the rubbish in their bins and even a skip! They were very happy that I had been collecting the rubbish.
Now to hear from my friends up there, and your great writeup, that the problem has only been exacerbated this summer by the lack of travel options and/or places to stay, bins and public restrooms to use. More and more laybys being removed thanks to those few that ruin it for the rest of us. It really does limit the options as the Highlanders have change forced upon them, but change really does seem the way forward to keep all as happy as can be. After all, we all know that you cannot please everyone, but we can compromise.
I live near Windsor, a town with a population of around 40,000 and a tourist trap like no other. We had 1.5million people visit the castle and Frogmore House in 2019 alone. Not sure how many more people visited the town only, or the Long Walk, but I’m know it was quite a lot! The borough council put out lots of extra litter patrols when it’s busy and lots of locals voluntarily collect litter in their spare time. If we didn’t do these voluntary patrols, then we really would be inundated in litter and yes, we do also have people fouling in our parks and alleys, laybys and carparks and so many people parking campervans overnight in nearby residential areas.
My point from all this is that there are solutions out there and while creating awareness is a fantastic starting point, it’s not just the councils responsibility. They only have a limited budget after all and often need help from the public/locals to create and implement solution bringing changes. Applying to the councils to let you implement Crowdfunding projects for additional bins, litter pickers and public loos could be a great starting point. Maybe even approaching the council about creating more council run camping grounds like the one at Loch Ewe. The issue will obviously ease as the borders start to reopen and these people start holidaying where they would usually go again, but for the next couple of years, there will no doubt still be a lot more visitors than usual.
We have a scheme in England and Wales where we buy a fishing licence that allows us to fish the various fresh water fisheries and rivers around the countries. And obviously there is the newish permit scheme to camp within the Loch Lomond area that seems to be working so far. Maybe if enough people get together with a petition to implement a nationwide scheme, with hefty fines for those caught breaking the rules. Police, park wardens etc could be given the power to inspect permits, with Police and maybe wardens employed by the money raised from permit sales, could have the power to create court summonses and on-the-spot fines. Right to roam would still remain, but those that like to break the rules would be put off, not so likely to risk dumping rubbish if someone knows who you are.
I hope this has at least helped in some way, maybe even inspired someone to take the next step to sorting the problem. I know I will always be happy to help where I can.
I look forward to seeing your future reports on the subject and hope they contain happier notes.
Thank you for this blog. We own a VW camper and have had fantastic times on the west coast and islands. Recently though we have avoided going there due to the issues that are occuring. We want to contribute to the local community by staying on campsites, letting traffic pass, leaving no trace and buying local. How we get others to follow these simple ideas is part of the issue. Education is part of it, but also is there merit in not advertising the route, taking down the road signs with NC500 on them and letting tourism return to something more sustainable. How about having minimum stays of 2 nights in B and B’s and campsites. People will still go to the west coast and islands to see the incredible landscape and contribute to the economy.